Abstract:

India has a rich tradition of jewellery and there are a number of styles of jewellery making in practice. Kundan is a type of traditional Indian jewellery that uses a framework of gold crafted in intricate details to set chips of gemstones driven by form. So far, studies were limited to documentation of existing pieces, family heirlooms and collection of royalty published in form of photographic documentation. Jewellery was seldom studied with a scientific point of view where precise measurements and mathematical interpretation of articles under observation were possible.

A smallest semantic unit, often identifiable by a name, is fundamental building block of Kundan jewellery. An assemblage of these put together in a certain manner constitutes a form cluster, which in turn by repetition, constitute an article. This study in three major parts is focussed on smallest semantic units creating form clusters and their interplay that makes a neckpiece, typically.

An early part of study elucidates preferential semantic units, arranged in a particular manner as form clusters. Form clusters created by these preferential semantic units consequently influence likeness in a positive way and were used to create a line drawing of an article. Several such clusters were thus created, driven by the need of a tool to objectively study preferences of Kundan jewellery. A grid was proposed and developed, for purpose of understanding, was a three dimensional visual array in form of presentation plates.

This grid was designed to test effect of three variables namely cluster pitch, variety in proximity and number of semantic units in a form cluster. This three dimensional model was used as a virtual test space to see in which area of this space preferential likeness of subjects fell.

Test plates in actual size were made for presentation to subjects. People were approached and a survey was conducted by reaching out to people investigating their responses to presented designs. Data was analysed and presented in an easy to comprehend manner using diagrams and charts. Findings embody preferential likeness in age cluster, marital and social status of user groups. This research takes a form based approach to study jewellery preferences.

This thesis has seven chapters, First chapter is Introduction that starts with jewellery as ornamentation and covers brief history of jewellery. It compares working styles of Indian and western jewellers thereafter reflect on contemporary scenario, various influences and subject importance.

Second chapter is review of literature and available material on Kundan. It elaborates this particular style of setting alongside other styles and takes domain overview. With review of books, periodicals and published articles it finds areas for potential research.

Third chapter talks about research methodology and sets a frame of reference for overall research. It starts with identification of smallest semantic units which make the overall form of an article. These units are then catalogued and classified in five broad categories for ease of understanding.

The study continues in domain as fourth chapter that elucidates form clusters made of smallest semantic units and its various aspects like size, variety and cluster pitch. It illuminates pattern creation with these form clusters with a generating circle. In that way proposes a tool to measure various aspects facilitating a mathematical interpretation of abstract terms.

Chapter five propounds concept of a tool in form of a three dimensional grid, where cluster fineness/coarseness and number of constituting semantic units are arranged in a methodical manner. Preferential likeness can be studied with orientation to this, virtual three dimensional, space that provides a frame of reference. The study continues in investigation of areas in which preferential likeness amass according to diverse user profiles.

Chapter six deals with investigation of preferential likeness based on user profiles based on marital status, social status and age. In form of radar diagrams it gives directions in which these choices gyrate. These are studied with reference to number of smallest semantic units and cluster pitch.<br>Chapter seven is summary and conclusions that highlights research findings and lists key contributions. It puts forward potential use of the tool in giving design directions and trend forecasting as well as potential applications for research in other types of jewellery.

The appendices contain complementary information that may be useful in further research as well as illuminating a particular point.